Bias cut garments are figure flattering and hang delicately. A gorgeous flowing result comes to the simplest garment just by cutting it on the bias. This Haute couture’s favorite technique doesn’t have to be intimidating, however it needs some key tips in order to have a great result.
THE FIRST TIME
Your first attempt in sewing a garment on the bias it’s wise to be simple.
Choose a fabric that hangs nicely and will be easy to work with. (I know that you’re dreaming a satin quality for this, but it’s better to leave it for the next time). Pick a fabric in a solid color or in all over print. Avoid stripes and plaids that have to be matched.
WHAT IS THE BIAS
True bias runs in 45 degrees angle that intersects the straight grain and the crosswise grain. Every piece of woven fabric has two true biases perpendicular to each other. There is a reason why the bias cut gives the attractive look that it does – When fabric is cut on the bias grain the air space in between the straight and crosswise threads of the fabric disappears and the fabric becomes supple and soft. Also, a fabric which is cut on the bias does not fray.
The bias of woven fabric offers stretch, malleability and flowing drape. The negatives are that these characteristics also give instability to the fabric so it can be difficult to work with and that you need much more fabric than cutting on the straight grain.
Garment’s bias grainlines must meet in opposite directions. This is to avoid twisting on the body and have a balanced result.
Pattern pieces must be placed on the fabric having different directions.
It is necessary all pattern pieces to be cut on a single layer of fabric and not on a fold (That's why you’ll find all our #Helenskirt pattern pieces full and not in the half).
Do not be in a hurry, accurately cutting is very important. Even a slight off from the true bias can change the fit of your garment. Many of us prefer to use pattern weights, however placing pins offers more control so it’s suggested for this cutting method.
Be gentle with the fabric. Keep it in place and do not pull or stretch it while stitching.
In order to allow stitching move and stretch in the same way of your bias garment use a very narrow zig zag stitch for all seams. (Make a trial with 2 or 2,5mm length and 0.5mm width). Press softly and not pull the seams while ironing so they do not stretch out. Hang your garment for a few hours before hemming. This will allow to hem to ‘settle’ so you can check for any droping spots. Remember that there is the option to not turn over your hem and leave it with the serger stitching. It may look nice.
I hope this article was helpful for you.
You can check out our bias cut #Helenskirt here